by Andrew » Wed Apr 07, 2010 7:55 am
This route is two routes over from OLOKITOLOT, which by the 2007 Guidebook would tell me that it is "Ruffus" 10c.
Half way up, there is a bolt, then a horizontal crack that could take a cam (maybe) and then another bolt above the crack. Anchors are new hangers with rings. As you are climbing up, you get to a point where a diagonally right trending thick flake you can undercling is in your path, but you have to move further right a few feet and then go up to reach that horizontal crack and then follow that left and go up to the anchor.
There is a spot where you have to use a small mono-pocket (it was a stretch for my 5.9 height) and move on up.
I don't remember there being a roof on this, but the other 3 routes I did that day were roofs. The books seems to say its Ruffus, which I thought might have meant that it had a roof.
My confusion is that the route to the right of OLOKITOLOT is called "Finger the Mono, Shorty" which led me to believe that may be the route I was on. The guidebook doesn't substantiate that, unless another route was put in and not in the new routes list
Hope this helps. My memory is faded from this route. It was definitely 5.10+, though I think Tom told me it felt like a 9+ just so I would get on it. LOL.