Stratafactor Direct

[Joe]

With complete intentions of poking at old wounds, this route deserves more attention than it gets. It's an excellent route and I'm glad we have it in Welsford. I have to agree with Tom, it is not run-out. I think people consider it a sport route with some trad placements, but it's just the opposite, it's a full-on trad route with a few bolts. If you approach it with that attitude, maybe you'll enjoy it more. And yes, there is a great crack above the last bolt that will adequately protect the last few moves over easier terrain, and it'll take a range of mid-sized cams. I climbed through it without problem, and then on rappell I checked it out better and saw it was quite good. Also there is an awesome thread between the 3rd and 2nd last bolts to fill in that stretch. Really, if you're good with trad pro, the route isn't run-out at all. But it's getting dirty and needs some traffic. My only peeve about the route is the silly hanging belay right beside a perfect belaying ledge. I'd much prefer to see the anchors shifted over to the ledge. If you're still in doubt, climb Sinus (classic!) and rappel SD to check out the gear.

PS. Tom didn't pay me to say this, yet.

[motanb]

lol... Nice work Joe!! I am happy to know that you really enjoyed the climb!!! Yes..It seems as though you and I 'read' the rock in a similar manner;-)

I would encourage all to get on this classic line...it really does protect well; it has good rests between the 'hard' parts..and yes..it is exposed BUT NOT run-out

Anyhow, happy climbing everyone...

[Fred]

The traffic this route receives speaks for itself in my opinion. The people have spoken, so to speak.

[martha]

Yes..It seems as though you and I 'read' the rock in a similar manner;-)

hmmm....both of you are much taller than 6 feet... I wonder if that is part of reading the rock in a similar manner? LOL...Me thinks the average 5'8" leader might disagree with you..

but hey.. they disagree with me too when I say that the holds on Montezumas are plenty big ...or that the crack on the top of snake peel is big enough to get your fingers into the second knuckle... LOL

[Shawn B]

The traffic this route receives speaks for itself in my opinion. The people have spoken, so to speak.

Here...here.
Power to the people!!

10 feet of good and well protected climbing (the cool overhanging arete on p1) and 170 feet of "other". The only thing it has going for it is its position and exposure. Be a solid 5.11+ climber if you try to onsight this. Also it is VERY dirty (all holds and everything in between) and sandbagged at 10c (maybe not if you are 6'3"). I would not encourage anyone who's lead limit is 10+ to jump on this. Just my opinion for what its worth...a penny maybe??