Odin

[Burley]

Added a rap anchor on Odin. Two 60m Ropes Needed - a 70m might get you down.

Replaced a rusted bent bolt/hanger and another after the new one that should also be replaced sometime. Old bolt and hanger are still there, but very obvious not to use it. I couldn't get the old hanger off or break the old bolt... put in a serious effort on Wed and Fri.

Got on it again yesterday to cut the old bolt and the saw-blade broke. Next time I get on it I'll bring some TNT and get it out of there.

Also removed an old bent shallow lost arrow.

Replaced the webbing on one of the reachy hangers and the 4mm cord on the two old thin pitons. There is a thin loose flake that needs to go as well. Some other loose rock towards the top that needs a prybar to come off.

[chossmonkey]

Its kinda reassuring when a bolt that looks like complete crap puts up a fight when trying to remove it.

Is it a stud bolt or some type with a machine bolt/nut that you can put a wrench on? I've always had pretty good luck with a breaker bar to pop them off.

[Fred]

The easiest way to get old bolts out is to tighten them until they break off. Another way is to bend the stud back and forth with the hammer. In both cases the stud will break off at the rock face.

[*Chris*]

Burley... sometime I need to borrow your hammer and a few hours of your belay time. I'm leading this route.

[Burley]

The easiest way to get old bolts out is to tighten them until they break off. Another way is to bend the stud back and forth with the hammer. In both cases the stud will break off at the rock face.

Yeah for sure. This Problem was that the bolt was already totally bent to the nut with the hanger on it, the nut was rusted on, and the head of the bolt is too mushroomed to ever get the nut off. I hammered on it for 30 minutes with little success.

[Burley]

Burley... sometime I need to borrow your hammer and a few hours of your belay time. I'm leading this route.

Sounds good!

[Matt Peck]

Certainly a cool line. I played on it a little bit last year and was suprised it hasn't been projected by a serious up and comer. She'd be tough!

[STeveA]

Nice to see the route getting some attention. I don't mind the old bolts being replaced, just try to put new ones close to the old so that the flavour of the aid route is not changed. Make sure you don't confuse the small shallow dolts (machine bolts screwed into a shallow hole) with bolts. They were placed intentionally and add to the flavour of the route. It should also be noted that there were NO fixed pitons on the route originally so if someone wants to remove them all feel free.

If it looks as though the route may go free (i.e. No aid moves) then I think we should re-evaluate the protection but that should wait until it is apparent that it will go.

[Burley]

Thanks Steve, wicked route and I didn't do anything to take away from it at all.

Fixed gear is good to leave as is in my opinion to keep from banging away at the rock. There are still spots you have to hammer... or balls up on sketchy cam hooks and regular hooks. I'll use the fixed gear until if fails or until I man up a bit more. I had to take out the one old piton because it was bent and flexing big time (super bent and very shallow as well). I put the new bolt/hanger about 2 inches right of the old bolt/hanger (still needs to be removed) and won't be replacing the the other bolt as it still works and there is a good bolt below and a rap anchor below that. Wicked route and I'll be doing it more.

[STeveA]

Are the pitons hiding holds that could be used to make the route go free? I think Odin is one of the more impressive looking routes so if it could go free that would be awesome.

[Adam]

so were all those bolts placed on lead?

[STeveA]

Yes. The climb was completed ground up.

[Burley]

It is all A1/C1 until you fall.

Got up it hammerless on Thursday. I used the existing fixed gear. C2 towards the top.

[Adam]

It is all A1/C1 until you fall.

hah, i wanna hear you say that when hanging from your third hook in a row

[Burley]

Ha Ha... I put that there because that is what I was saying to myself through the thin part of the route.... mmm... micro nuts and ball nutz.