Hampton Marsh - Full Moon Arete - Cut off rope

[Shawn B]

I know we can all assume you WEREN'T toproping through that....because everyone knows that is not acceptable....right?!?! A shiny new penny goes to the first person who lists the reasonS why. At least you didn't figure the rope was stuck good and batman or jug up the "fixed" line. Might seem obvious but been done I'm sure.

[Burley]

I love pennies...

death triangle of forces and dollar store quick links not fit for a swing set.

[PeterA]

I don't see any death triangle, it looks to me like the good diagram, rather than the death triangle.

also, note the artistic skills
-PJ

[martha]

for half of burleys penny....

how about some webbing that you don't know who put there/how long it's been there/ how its' been used?.....

[PeterA]

It looks like it's two seperate pieces of webbing though. Since the odds of breaking one strand of webbing is extremely low, Two strands should be ok.

-PJ

[martha]

It looks like it's two seperate pieces of webbing though. Since the odds of breaking one strand of webbing is extremely low, Two strands should be ok.

-PJ

Yup, it 'should' be..... but if I were there, since I don't know the age of the webbing, I would use my own slings. May as well be as safe as possible.

[Joe]

Shawn raises an important point - existing slings/tat/mallions should NOT be used for top-roping. They are for rappelling only. Always set up your own anchor for top-roping with your locking biners and equalized cordellete. It is very bad practice anywhere to top-rope on existing slings, as tope-roping causes far more dynamic shock to the anchors than rappelling. And if you're rappelling off of questionable tat, back it up! Falling sucks.

Also, I found a newish Black Diamond nut below those hanging ropes. Tell me the size and it's yours.

[Adam]

Falling sucks.

Joe knows what he's talking about.

[PeterA]

It looks like it's two seperate pieces of webbing though. Since the odds of breaking one strand of webbing is extremely low, Two strands should be ok.

-PJ

Yup, it 'should' be..... but if I were there, since I don't know the age of the webbing, I would use my own slings. May as well be as safe as possible.

I lost sight of the original question. for top roping, I would definitely use my own slings. I was only referring to rappelling, my bad

-PJ

[STeveA]

I know we can all assume you WEREN'T toproping through that....because everyone knows that is not acceptable....right?!?! A shiny new penny goes to the first person who lists the reasonS why.

The only reason to not use it as a top rope anchor is that you are wearing away the rap point.

[Shawn B]

I know we can all assume you WEREN'T toproping through that....because everyone knows that is not acceptable....right?!?! A shiny new penny goes to the first person who lists the reasonS why.

The only reason to not use it as a top rope anchor is that you are wearing away the rap point.

Yes Steve that is MY main concern...the pre-mature wearing of fixed anchors. Any person TR'ing off this set-up should also be concerned that the rope is fed through ONE maillion. I also doubt that the orientation of the set-up is such that the bolts are most likely not equalized for the direction of forces. I think the rap is set up so that you go off the front right side and not down the lunch box face. As a result you are basically TR'ing off one bolt, one maillion (with unknown history) with one single piece of webbing (also unknown history). Should that one bolt fail, the second (with also unknown history webbing) is now shock loaded. Some may call me paranoid or over-safe or that I overthink it but I can live with that and would like to contine to live...all for the sake of a few minutes time, 4 locking biners and a cordelette. I've been called much worse than over-safe I'm sure too. Just my .02. And like I first said MY concern is the pre-mature wearing of the anchor as that is what affects me. If someone wants to TR off sketch, be my guest...oh...just don't do it in Welsford whereby if you crater we'll lose our access.

[*Chris*]

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong here... but I don't think the original poster made any suggestion that they were top roping from this set up?

[PeterA]

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong here... but I don't think the original poster made any suggestion that they were top roping from this set up?

That's not how the internet works at all

-PJ

[STeveA]

I know we can all assume you WEREN'T toproping through that....because everyone knows that is not acceptable....right?!?! A shiny new penny goes to the first person who lists the reasonS why. At least you didn't figure the rope was stuck good and batman or jug up the "fixed" line. Might seem obvious but been done I'm sure.

I just want my shiny penny. My reply had nothing to do with the original post!