Another new route in Sunnyside

[david]

I have been looking at that line for a few months now and I finally decided to rap down on it today. There were quite a few loose blocks so I figured it was nobody's project. I might have been climbed before... but if not:

Tortillons 5.9 G 30'/N/T
FA: D. Drolet, L. Paull 2008.10.25
FFA: D. Drolet 2008.10.25

Starting 5 feet right of Rebel Yell, climb the obvious vertical crack that goes through two bulges. Really interesting sequency crux. Dirty scramble to reach huge pine way up.


The grade could be anywhere from 5.8 to 5.10... hard to say since I worked on the sequence for a while. Solid gear where you need it. Right now the best option is to scramble way up to reach a big tree. There are two sketchy cedars on the way but I wouldn't recommend using them. If anyone is willing to show me how to drill, I'll put a much needed rap station next year or later this year.

[Leehammer]

That was David's first FFA and his most difficult trad lead to date also. Really awesome day!

[Adam]

lol, i think i know which route you mean. i actually climbed this on self-rappel, with crocs on a couple years ago, but i think i pulled on the rope at the very top as it was very dirty. i'd agree prob 5.8ish.

good work on the lead and just make sure that if you want people to climb it that it is very clean. not just loose rock, but scrub the rock with brushes to clear off lichen and moss.

[Adam]

are tortillons the salted cheese from quebec? i believe the route 'salted jesus' in greenlaw is named after the same dairy treat

erick i think you had been eyeing that line as well. there are still a few routes left to go up in sunnyside so it's good to see continued development.

[david]

are tortillons the salted cheese from quebec?

Correct. Also a horrible translation for Twizzlers.

[Adam]

a comment on the shape of the crack i take it.

again, good work on the lead. is the route all cleaned up? or does it need more scrubbing? even if all the holds are clean is a good start.

[Fred]

ah yes... Salted Jesus. The funny things you say and crave when you have the munchies.

[martha]

LOL. What a funny story with that route name. Not one of Fred's finer moments. Good time though. LOL

[david]

is the route all cleaned up? or does it need more scrubbing? even if all the holds are clean is a good start.

I gave it a good scrub and it is pretty clean. It wasn't that dirty to start with. There is still a loose pebble jammed in the crack... I left it there as it keeps a cam from walking. There is another hollow sounding block, but it's not moving so it's still there.

[Adam]

lol, i think i know which route you mean. i actually climbed this on self-rappel, with crocs on a couple years ago, but i think i pulled on the rope at the very top as it was very dirty. i'd agree prob 5.8ish.

good work on the lead and just make sure that if you want people to climb it that it is very clean. not just loose rock, but scrub the rock with brushes to clear off lichen and moss.

it has been brought to my attention that in the post quoted above i sound like an arrogant jerk who laughs at climbing another man's project. i would like to clarify that my croc-ascent was marginal, awkward, illegitimate (i had to take), on toprope, and very much not a wonder to behold. so i was actually laughing at myself.

hope that clears up the misconceptions.

[Nihoa]

it has been brought to my attention that in the post quoted above i sound like an arrogant jerk who laughs at climbing another man's project. i would like to clarify that my croc-ascent was marginal, awkward, illegitimate (i had to take), on toprope, and very much not a wonder to behold. so i was actually laughing at myself.

hope that clears up the misconceptions.

hahah, well owned