New Route - Neapolitan 5.10a

[Matt Peck]

Just got the Free send last night.

Toad in the Hole 5.10 c G 65'/S (4)/R (2)
FA Matthew Peck, Jenn Barth, PJ Adamson.
From the right most end of the lower tier, head left until you meet the first major gulley. 10' right find 4 bolts above a major pocket. head left after the first bolt to regain the line. Small to medium cams can protect between the first two bolts (easy climbing) if you choose.

This route is at the 10 rap hangers at the right end of the map. There are also two more rap stations to the right of these two routes.

[Adam]

Looks good. People can download or view either the large or small image. By the way they look fine on a 42" screen (Nobody uses a small 36" screen anymore do they).

i'll take your old 36" off your hands for you Steve

[motanb]

..... wow! what a thread!

So...where is this place?

I've been doing some recon' driving in Charlotte county lately and I have seen what could potentially be a great sport venue. Very overhanging with what seems to be lots of cracks, holds, features etc. The rock appears to be solid granite too.

I was on "flight of the valkeryies" last sunday and had to leave a red dmm cam cuz the silly sally walked in on me. So, if anyone happens extract it, could ya kindly retirn it to its owner?

[Burley]

Tom,

I checked out a nice bit of overhanging granite as well... it is in the Lake Utopia area. Adam and I are planning to check it out closer sometime soon. Is this the same location?

A few of us are also in the process of putting up some routes in this area at a different cliff. Nice granite slab... high quality. All projects right now... but some are bolted... just waiting for a dry day to send them.

Email me at burley.erick at sunbury dot ca if you want directions and/or photos.

[Adam]

probably heading there sunday if you want to join in.

[PeterA]

probably heading there sunday if you want to join in.

We'll probably be there too, we can show you around

-PJ

[PeterA]

woops read that wrong, thought u were heading to our cliff, didn't see Burley's post

-PJ

[Adam]

woops read that wrong, thought u were heading to our cliff, didn't see Burley's post

-PJ

you going to be there saturday? i might pop in to check it out depending on weather.

[PeterA]

We'll almost definitely be there. We're heading there tonight and camping out so we'll be there for most of tomorrow regardless of weather

-PJ

[mathieu]

That was an interesting read. Lets recap

A FA was posted on the web for a route in a new area. This area was kept a secret for reasons I don't remember, eventually Shawn and choss monkey (name?, the guy from ON) got into an argument about ethics, wives and friends soon took sides and eventually the messy argument faded (around the middle of page 2). At this point, there was a bunch of spraying about other cliffs in NB, then other internet savy users ended up using Google earth and found New Brunswick 5th cliff that is worth climbing at. Now everybody knows where it is and surprise surprise, its nowhere near moncton, much to Tylers disapointment.

Have I missed anything?

Oh BTW they rap bolt routes in the rockies but there is also some ground up bolting, some cracks are bolted, while some routes are just scary runout. Ethics are a personal choice and they will always be arguments among people since we don't live in a dictaroship.

I haven't been on this site for a good month, nice to see nothing has changed.

Mathieu

[Adam]

so when u moving back Matt? lol

[Adam]

and so breaks the dam...

if you cant read maps ill make this real easy for you:

at the irving take the 101 east ~8km
turn left onto unknown road
head south ~3km
turn right
head to the end of this road ~2 km

and there you have it

hehe... just noticed how tricky you were here Mark.

[jdhohmann]

So after all the discussion on this new site, I still don't know where it is at!!!! Hey Steve I am going to stop in very soon and find out where this area is at

[martha]

So after all the discussion on this new site, I still don't know where it is at!!!! Hey Steve I am going to stop in very soon and find out where this area is at

you still climb? sheesh.. I had no idea! Thought you had become a great seaman and abandoned the other ropes and knots.

[jdhohmann]

So after all the discussion on this new site, I still don't know where it is at!!!! Hey Steve I am going to stop in very soon and find out where this area is at

you still climb? sheesh.. I had no idea! Thought you had become a great seaman and abandoned the other ropes and knots.

Lets just say I took a little Hiatus, and want to try to get back into it!!!!!!!!!

[Adam]

Thought you had become a great seaman and abandoned the other ropes and knots.

i think the term is 'sailor'... seaman is not a term one should use around climbers...

[*Chris*]

So... I was driving around the area of bald / bear / top secret / cloud hill (what's the official name) yesterday and decided to swing in for a look. I was surprised to find myself driving past what looks like a huge site for disposal/storage of contaminated soil! I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this before. She smelled like toxic death in the sun yesterday! Does anybody know what it is, specifically, that they are doing at this operation?

I assume that you guys are driving to the site via the cutblock road which approaches from the east going through the soil dump? Or is there an alternate way from the west via South Oromoncto Lake rd?

[Adam]

yah i meant to post that as well after checking it out. wasn't expecting it either. what a massive operation though eh? makes me wonder whether i should eat those blueberries up there lol

[jdhohmann]

So... I was driving around the area of bald / bear / top secret / cloud hill (what's the official name) yesterday and decided to swing in for a look. I was surprised to find myself driving past what looks like a huge site for disposal/storage of contaminated soil! I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this before. She smelled like toxic death in the sun yesterday! Does anybody know what it is, specifically, that they are doing at this operation?

I assume that you guys are driving to the site via the cutblock road which approaches from the east going through the soil dump? Or is there an alternate way from the west via South Oromoncto Lake rd?

That area is actually owned by the irvings, that is where they take all their compost from theier boiler plants and form the cutting form the woods and make a high yeild COmpost. they actually are just starting to makae a big buisness out of it and are going to sell it for good prices. You should try some, its great for the garden, so they say

[martha]

You should try some, its great for the garden, so they say

What kind of "Garden" you talking about there Jan?!

[*Chris*]

That area is actually owned by the irvings, that is where they take all their compost from theier boiler plants and form the cutting form the woods and make a high yeild COmpost. they actually are just starting to makae a big buisness out of it and are going to sell it for good prices. You should try some, its great for the garden, so they say

Thanks... but I'll pass. It sure ain't going to carry an organic label... I'll tell you that much. I figured it was an Irving operation... on their land, and I saw Sunbury trucks dumping materials.

Seriously though. Its a (content moderated) mess. I saw what looked like a pile of lime in addition to spent hog fuel, chipper waste, and I believe mineral soil. The placed also smelled similar to dumps where fish processing plants sell off their waste. I'm going to find out where all these additional materials are coming from. There's got to be an EIA on file somewhere.

[jdhohmann]

You should try some, its great for the garden, so they say

What kind of "Garden" you talking about there Jan?!

Now Martha, You know I can't tell you that kind of information!11 If I did, you know what I would have to do to ya!!!!!!

[Adam]

yah it definitely doesn't look nor smell like a very healthy soil make up.

[Nihoa]

chris is the erin brockovich of new brunswick but way sexier

[martha]

chris is the erin brockovich of new brunswick but way sexier

Yeah, he's got a nicer rack.

[*Chris*]

chris is the erin brockovich of new brunswick but way sexier

Damn strait!

erinbrockovich.jpg (26.97 KiB) Viewed 3858 times

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[chossmonkey]

[Nihoa]

priceless norfolk