Where are the best places to climb?

[paulabram]

Hello Eastern Canada Climbers,

We are from the UK and coming over to Canada for a wedding in Montreal. We have 3 weeks in total and we are looking for some recommendations on where to climb (trad or sport) and also the locations of some multi-day hikes (3 days max).

We hope to travel from Montreal to Nova Scotia visiting crags on the way. We are climbing up to 5.11ish and really enjoy sea cliffs but we are really open to any ideas.

Any thoughts, even if you think we are mad trying to get from Montreal to Nova Scotia!

I know this is a big ask but any recommendations would be really helpful.

Thanks for your help

Paul

[martha]

I would recommend stopping for some Sport climbing in Kamouraska Quebec, some trad climbing in Welsford NB. Perhaps some hiking in Fundy National Park after that. There are some gorgeous trails there. Then on to Nova Scotia for some bouldering/camping on Dover Island (truely the most beautiful spot ever) and then a bit of hiking in Kejimikujik National Park in Nova Scotia.

Sounds like a wonderful trip!!!

Cara

[motanb]

If you can, go to where almost everyone is blabbering about on this site: namely Cochrane Lane. Its awesome!

[Joe]

Hi Paul:

Even though NB has lots of sea cliffs, we have very little climbing development on them. Generally the rock is too weathered and fractured for safe climbing. As Tom suggests, Cochrane Lane has the best granite in the province but it's inland.

Regarding hiking, I strongly recommend the Fundy Footpath. It's a world class wilderness trail, running 50 km from Fundy Nat'l Park to St. Martins. No problem in 3 days if you pack light! Also right across the Bay of Fundy in Nova Scotia is the Cape Chignecto Hiking Trail, a beautiful 50km loop. It's easier than the Fundy Footpath - a casual 3 day hike - with more development (tent platforms and outhouses). Both trails offer awesome views of the Bay of Fundy and camping on beaches. But be warned, the tides rise very high, and it's too friggin cold for swimming!

[Shawn B]

Do you have to stay in Canada or are you able to travel into the US as well? If you are able, a circle through New England and out to Nova Scotia and back through Quebec would be my recommendation. Hit Rumney if you like sport climbing, followed by North Conway (both in New Hampshire) for some of the best granite trad climbing around and a real cool town, then onto Acadia National Park in Maine for some more excellent granite trad climbing and probably the best sea cliffs around at Otter Cliffs and Great Head. Then into New Brunswick for trad climbing at Welsford (world class climbing...no crowds...shhhh). Ditto Joe's remarks about Fundy footpath. 50k of ups and downs on one the longest uninhabited section of coastline on the eastern seaboard. Hit Halifax for some bouldering and then if recovered from fundy footpath, hit Cape Chignecto park for another beautiful (and easier) 3 day hike. On the way back to Montreal go through Northern New Brunswick and hike in the Chic Choc Provincial park, then Kamouraska for some sport climbing and spend a day in Old Quebec. Phew...head back home for a rest.

[paulabram]

Guys

Thanks very much for all the information provided, it has been really useful in helping us planning our trip.

Looking on the web at some of the photos the places look superb.

Unfortunately we are not able to travel through the USA due to new visa restrictions even though we are from the UK, but never mind, it means more time in Canada!

I also have a couple of questions about gear and guide books. On the gear side
- How cold does it get at night at the end of August/ beginning of Sept as we will be camping and need to bring the right sleeping bags?

And the guide books
- I understand Welsford is covered by Fred's guide, any other recommendations to cover some of the other areas mentioned and are they available to buy at MEC in Montreal or at local climbing shops?

Thanks for all your help, it has been really useful, hopefully we will be able to say hello to some of you at the crags......

Paul

[martha]

August/September Camping is summer so it won't get very cold at night. In mid september it might dip down to 10 degrees Celsius, but that would be the coldest.

Fred's guide covers all of the rock climbing in New Brunswick. You should be able to pick up a Nova Scotia bouldering guide at the MEC in Montreal, and definitely in Halifax. the Nova Scotia Rock climbing guide is also available in NS, but not sure where.. Sean can you share?

There are also 'Trail Guides' to both Nova Scotia and New Brunswick that should be available at MEC.