Looking for Advice on Welsford

[gwa]

Hey,
I was hoping some climbers out there with time to kill at their desks wouldn't mind passing along some route recommendations for Welsford.

My partner and I have three days to climb, a sport rack, and are happy top-roping trad routes that are sweet. We're looking for 5.9-5.10 grades.

We've got a guide book and I was there a couple years ago but don't have a good memory of the routes I climbed. I've never been to Sunnyside and it sounds wicked- any routes I should do there?

thanks,

[Burley]

Sport draws only?

If it were me I'd just go to Sunnyside and Greenlaw if you are looking for sport lines in that range. Both are 90% sport crags. Get a guidebook and just get on everything... start with the three star routes. There are some new lines in each spot so the guide book will seem wacked... especially in Sunnyside.

Since you have 3 days you could spend one Chochrane lane... beauty of a spot, but not much for concentrated sport lines... lots of wicked trad though.

[martha]

Also, please respect the Peregrine Falcon Closure. A number of walls that offer great top roping of some classic Trad lines are closed due to this at the moment. There is information in some other threads.

I agree with Burley though. You are best to go to St. Andrews and Sunnyside if you aren't leading any trad though you could spend an afternoon at Upper Tier and top rope a few lines on the Pryamid and at Waterfall Wall. There are 2 sport routes in your range at Waterfall wall and you could walk around and set up the classic line of 'Waterfall Layback' to top rope. Though gear would be nice for directionals on that route.

I'm sure that there will be others around to help you out when you are there.

Also, do you mind me asking where you picked up the guidebook? Was it a MEC for you?

[*Chris*]

My recommendations for awesome moderate sport (or moderately awesome sport) climbing

@ Cochrane Ln.
Mr. Torpedo 5.9
Most Unprecedented 5.10a
Joint Venture 5.10? (feels hard to me)
Drytoolers will be Prosecuted 5.10b/c
Leviathan 5.11
Biohazard 5.11 (not your typical Welsford technique)

@ Sunnyside
Stairway to Heaven 5.7
Covalence 5.8
All Hail 5.10a
Quantum Theory 5.10b

There are certainly others but I don't have a guidebook in front of me and I'd hate to throw you off course by getting a name wrong.

[*Chris*]

I'll just add that if you do go to Waterfall Wall definately set a TR on Waterfall Layback. It's a super classic with an easy hike around to the top. Directionals are not absolutely necessary so don't let that scare you off.

[Murph]

There are some new lines in each spot so the guide book will seem wacked... especially in Sunnyside.

For new lines in Sunnyside, you can check out Fred's Beta-source page

[gwa]

Hey,
Thanks everyone for your advice. Great weather, great climbing. I can't wait to come back.

Chris, I hit up monsieur torpedo and drytooler will be prosecuted, awesome routes. Waterfall Layback was fun.

Take it easy,

[Fred]

sweet!

I love hearing that.