Climb Eastern Canada

by **martha** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 6:15 pm

Hi All,

I want to start this thread for ice conditions updates throughout the season. Of course, please send all your info to Joe as well.

I'm want to go climbing on Sunday if there is some ice. Darrell, can you update us on Parlee tomorrow? Give me a call if you don't get to a computer. I don't want to waste a day to go and climb nothing since my baby free days are few and far between!

Cheers!!!

by **Fred** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:05 pm

I already updated this thread a few weeks ago. See sticky thread. It's a continuation of last year's.

by **Ken P** » Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:50 pm

I'm heading into Fall Brook Falls sometime next week. I don't ice climb but I can send pics for those who may be better at determining ice conditions.

by **Fred** » Sat Dec 30, 2006 7:15 pm

I heard through the grape vine that there was TR'able ice in Parlee to be had today (Saturday). Maybe... maybe leadable with super short screws and big balls.

by **jeremy** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 5:16 pm

grand falls was ok on friday, mostly tr but some climbs would have been leadable. after the past 2 days of cold, it will only be getting better, quickly...
jeremy

by **martha** » Sun Dec 31, 2006 7:49 pm

Five of us out in Welsford today. Waterfall Wall had the centerline in but only TR-able today. It was hollow in the middle with running water behind it. Lots flowing. A few more cold days and there will be lots of ice there. By mid afternoon, ice was coming down everywhere. What was frozen on Cave Fever also came down.

A few lessons were learned.... Rob needs to keep his toenails trimmed up nice. Burley finds it easier to lead rock when not wearing his mountaineering boots and I am positive it is much easier to ice climb when not 7 months pregnant.

can't wait until next weekend!!!!

by **Stef** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 11:38 am

Anyone planning on going into parlee this weekend? I don't imagine the conditions will be great, but there might be something climbable. I am wondering if it will be worth the slog?

by **martha** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 8:28 pm

Do it up Stef.. and let me know what it is like. :-)

I'm not wasting a baby-free day on a 'hope there is some ice in there'!

by **Stef** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:22 am

I drove past welsford yesterday and there was more ice on waterfall wall than I would have expected. Still thin, but probably top-ropeable in a few days. I am hoping that Sussex will be in even better shape.

Cheers,

S.

by **Ken P** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 1:37 pm

Went to Fall Brook Falls today. The gate-house is closed up for the winter as always, however the road is now gated permanantly.

Irving bought-out Bowater in the summer/06, so access has changed significantly. Too bad FBF has been a winter/summer destination of mine for years. Access with other large companies was never an issue.

by **martha** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:35 pm

Ken, is there any way to drive around the gate?

Man, the hike in would be a LONG one if one wanted to do so.

... crappy,... I used to like getting out there at least once a winter.

by **Ken P** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 11:12 pm

Apparently, some of the "Up River Locals" have alternative ATV trails. Otherwise the only other approach is from the south side of the Miramichi, but again ATVs required (south-side also owned by Irving). Trenches have been dug 15-20ft deep into the roads to hinder access from the south. Also the upper section of the Miramichi freezes late due to the low- fast water, and it seems to be getting later every year.

by **Fred** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 7:35 pm

any ice updates from today? anyone check out Grand Falls, Waterfall Wall or Parlee?

by **Graham** » Mon Jan 15, 2007 10:30 am

Any one know the status of Hayes falls? It hasn't been overly warm lately so I'm not overly confident it's frozen. I'm heading out climbing Tomorow afternon so I thought I'd check my options.

by **Fred** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 7:09 pm

please make use of this thread to report your ice conditions instead of starting new threads

by **Ken P** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:49 pm

For anyone who cares, Fall Brook Falls is very solid.
The gate is now open for the remainder of the winter.

by **Matt Peck** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:18 pm

Hey all. Lots of folks into the Quarry today, conditions are quite good, and by that I mean fatter than they have been in at least two years. Drainpipe and Ice scream both saw multiple leads from all sides and several other lines got tr'd. Best leading is early in the morning as many lines delam by 1 pm or so. Beautiful day out, no need for the Down at all.

by **PeterA** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 10:00 pm

Out at the quarry todaythe conditions are still great. Lines get soft at the end of the day, but are pretty solid in the early morning. great day out, lots of people.

by **Fred** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:28 pm

ice was fat and brittle today at Waterfall Wall

by **max** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 5:15 pm

climb in dorchester cape today and things were great, the tides are prefect for this weekend. Max

by **max** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 5:15 pm

you can check out the photo's on joe's site

by **max** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:12 pm

Find some a new area, Cape Maringouin, which is localed at the very far tip of Rockport. It is a 1hr or so to hike in and all the routes are 15-30m long and cater to everyone. Heidi and I did 2 routes. For more info check out Joe's site. Or message me.

by **max** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:13 pm

Found a new area.

by **Matt Peck** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:20 pm

Hey kids.
hit up Ministers face this weekend with Rob, Trace, and Shawn B. The face is in and fat, should be great for ice fest next weekend. All 3 main lines were lead, with Shawn cruising the curtain with great panache.
The drive home showed Cave Fever glistening in the sunset, and the temptation was too great.
Sunday saw us climbing the main face in welsford, with the middle line being lead in somewhat sunbaked conditions. 2-3 inches of crap had to be excavated before good placements could be had in brittle ice. all three main lines are in, but the rightmost is in the best condition. The left line is thin and baked on the gully section, with lots of hollow spots.
Cave fever was in and only slightly baked through the crux section. It took medium screws, with stubby placements possble but unlikely through the exit slabs. The slabs were hollow and delaminated throughout the length, terminating in a snowy patch. Lots of cahones required! Glad to have that one ticked off.
Big shout out to Rob and Trace for the killer belay and positive vibes, as well as to Al for the great camera work.
Cheers,
M@

by **Tracy Thibodeau** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 7:59 pm

That was an awesome lead Matt. Cave Fever had me shaking in my booties (I did not say "boobies" :roll:

) as a second...... I can't imagine leading it!!!!

by **Diamox** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 7:33 am

Is the ice in around the saint john area? I'm going to be there for three weeks and wondering if I should bring my axes...

Cheers,

by **martha** » Mon Mar 05, 2007 8:43 am

Welsford is still in but too many more sunny days and we'll be losing parts of it.

Climb Eastern Canada

Ice Conditions 2006/2007

Ice Conditions 2006/2007

dorchester cape

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