top-roping through anchors

[Fred]

No Fred, I think that they meant to clip each ring or bolt with one biner and tr off of those.

I could be wrong. Well if that's the case then it's not cool. Not so much for the anchor but for their own safety. I have only seen this done a few times and shook my head.

[Andrew]

Shawn,

I agree with you on that, Shawn. I think it's good for people to hear that they should be sure their anchoring systems and other things like that are done safe, redundant and correctly. There are a number of ways to anchor and some are more safe than others. Some that are simply correct, where others just are not.

I use the proper method listed here with the 4 lockers and two slings/cordelettes of course equaliszed with a figure eight. It seems to be very stable. You showed me that once on Minkey wall. I had known about that but didn't always do it that way, now I always do thanks to you mentioning it to me. My previous method, I belive was safe but not as redundant as it really should be.

All helpfull tips are always welcomed. How else are some of us to learn? You can read books but you can't always trust what's in print. YOu have to make up your own mind as to if a method makes logical sense.

Take care.

No Fred, I think that they meant to clip each ring or bolt with one biner and tr off of those. I don't think it was a given that they would extend it further with slings or draws. I realize the original purpose was that people were placing unnecessary wear on fixed hardware. I didn't even bother ranting about that as it seemed to be ranted out. I was just adding my thoughts and voicing my growing intolerance of the practices of some people. I agree with you that a long draw on each bolt is ok for sport climbing (albeit I use a locker on each end of both draws). It still isn't ideal but better than some other options. And if someone is offended by me voicing my intolerance, maybe they are defensive for a reason. I'm not pointing any fingers at anyone in particular but if it causes someone to take a look at their practices I think that is a good thing...regardless of how abrupt they may feel I am. Setting an equalized and redundant anchor is not rocket science. Don't be lazy. Lowering off is accepted as ok but why not rap if it extends the life of fixed gear? (lower off's excluded of course).