The way life should be

[Fred]

Can I get a consensus on what the final grade of this route should be?

[Mountain_Marc]

Is this a route that is located immediatly left of "It's a Way of Life"?

[Fred]

no. It's on Minkey right of "Pink Panther"

John Bowles confirmed 5.12a which is what I thought as well. A bit stiffer than Ulysse's 5.11b grade.

[martha]

definately an 11+ or 12- Ulysse is just a machine and a bit of a sandbagger! hehe.

[motanb]

Hey guys,

The way" is a fine line that Ulysse created. I had the privlidge of onsighting the route several years back. I realize that i have an "abnormally" long reach etc, however, I firmly believe that this climb is no harder than 11c MAX. I told Ulysse that i thought it was 11b hence his suggestion of the grade. I dont onsight 12a trad. It is not 12a. If anyone attempts the route they will find sufficient holds and rests whilst climbing. It is not an endurance test.
Foe example of comparison, the central scrutinizer is graded 11a ( a bit stiff perhaps ) yet "the way" is relatively in my opinion of the same difficulty.
To end, "the way" is in my opinion no harder than 11c. Definitely NOT 12a.

[john]

Thom as you said, the route is a one move wonder, you may not onsight (in your opinion) 12 trad but the way life should be is not 12 trad in the sense that the only one hard move on the route has a bolt at your waist. I think the route is easy 11 except for that move which is no doubt 12 for average height people and since the YDS system grades on an onsight basis for the hardest move the route it should be 12. The day Ulysse did it shawn and I followed him. He has since downgraded it but I think that is due to familiarity. To onsight that route using the tricky undercling which you have to unless you can reach the crimp way way above, is harder than other welsford 5.11. Good discussion.

How hard is Serenity, I heard you were on it? You broke the flxing hold didn't you. Pull down, not out hahahahahahahah

cheers

john