Climb Eastern Canada

by **Matt Peck** » Sun Mar 05, 2006 7:12 pm

another awesome weekend ice climbing. Fred, John, Eric, Tony and I headed up to Grand Falls saturday for a great day with weird weather and extremely varied ice conditions. Lines 3,4 and 5 were lead and an awesome attempt on the rightmost line of 8 was made by Fred. Not sure how much longer the season will hang on, but I hope for a couple of weeks like this.

by **Fred** » Sun Mar 05, 2006 9:15 pm

one thing to say... That thing is big. Wow! I got pumped so bailed and got lowered 3/4 of the way up. Next time. :shock:

by **justin** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 3:14 pm

So Fred, has anyone led that ine yet I was thinking of trying it last sun. but didnt have my head together (too late a nite on Sat.) but it's looking pretty sick right now. We toproped the main face to the left of it, it was prob. the best line of ice I have done all season.
I will be on Washington this weekend but when I come back I hope to kick it's ass.
cheers justin

by **Fred** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:00 pm

It's hard to say what part I went up because that wall is so wide. I essentialy went up the highest point just left of an open cave then cross back right over the cave and up the vertical face. I got up a few feet on the last vertical bit and downclimbed to my last screw and retreated.

I went up the red line. Then I top-roped the green line. The green line is serious WI5 and major pumpy. Way harder than the red route. I don't know how hard the red line is but definitely WI4+.[/img]

by **justin** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:13 pm

We toproped the red line only instead of going right we went straight up, it was super soft on sun. as you can see i posted a pic on Joes site it was a no shirt day there, no wind and the sun shining on your back.
But I was looking at more the green line, there are a few good rests on it right now.

by **Fred** » Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:27 pm

the green line is deceivingly steep. If you aim for the dead vertical, i.e. not way right up that buldging stuff, it's mega hard. I had a crazy hard time on TR. I can't imagine leading it. But again, 5ft right of it offers easier climbing.

by **Joe** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 9:34 am

A couple of years ago, Chuck lead the blue pillar directly above Fred in the photo, straight up. I lead the red line, but slightly left of the line, directly straight up the route. I thought it was a 5. I also rapidly descended that route! I don't recall the green line.

by **Fred** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 10:19 am

I would agree that it's WI5 if you aim for the steeps. And if you take a turn for some shelves and cop a rest like I did you can make a WI4+ out of it.

The ice isn't the best on that cliff. It's huge though.

by **martha** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 1:04 pm

Joe wrote: I also rapidly descended that route! I don't recall the green line.

We don't reccomend that anyone take Joe's decent route. it is a little sketchy.

:wink:

by **shannon** » Sat Mar 11, 2006 2:23 pm

Hi everyone,

Might be a chance that I'll be returning to Grand Falls during my march break to have another go. This may just be a week day event for us. Justin, Matt, anyone else, is this a posibility for you guys to come along?
-Ice pending of course! :~)

shannon

by **Fred** » Sat Mar 11, 2006 10:06 pm

don't worry about the ice pending. there's lots of it in Grand Falls for a while yet

by **justin** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 4:10 pm

Just give me a shout Shannon, I'm allways game.
On another note all the gullies down in Huntington Ravine are choice right now, theres more ice on more climbs than ever.

by **shannon** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 7:00 pm

Justin,

Great hearing from you! Curious, where's Huntington Ravine?

If it's within reach, We're game for that, but otherwise, we're aiming for tuesday, march 21st for Grand falls. Probably 10 or 11 AM. I'm guessing that my wife will want to sleep in!

The afternoon of the 20th, we'll likely hit Hayes falls for a warm up on our way to Florenceville. I'm eager to check out all the lines there, and woop it up.

shannon

email me your number again so I can call you if need be.

shannon@trailpeak.com

by **shannon** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 9:14 pm

Dates have changed. I guess we're free the last half of next week; wed to friday or maybe saturday.
So if anyone can come out to climb at grand falls, or another lofty spot within reach of there, let us know. We'll be centered in Florenceville, an hour's drive from Grand falls.

Justin, any spots close to the maine border, or within an hour's drive into maine state?

shannon

by **justin** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:37 pm

Not any spots close to here, I have one spot to check next year but it wouldnt be in for sure now, I'm prob heading to Grand Falls this weekend some time to see how its still hangin in, but not sure with all the warm temps and rain we are having right now, rest of the week looks like bad weather too.
P.S. Huntington is in New Hampshire on Mt. Washington, the best alpine climbing in New England next to Mt. Katahdin.

by **shannon** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 7:57 pm

Hey Justin,

Yea, I looked it up on Google, and saw it. Sweet. Been there before?

According to the sustained temps, I'm hoping that it will be OK in Grand Falls Thursday or Friday.

http://www.theweathernetwork.com/weathe ... m?CANB0046

I'll be checking regularly, and if the temps fly high, we're off to Fundy I suppose. Cross your gloved fingers!

shannon

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