Ice climbing gear

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Ice climbing gear

Postby granite_grrl » Fri Oct 14, 2005 8:05 am

So I've decided to start ice climbing this winter. Clothes wise I think I can get along okay (could maybe use a different/better pair of gloves, but I can cope with what I have right now).

The three things I see myself requiring for this sport are boots, crampons and axes. In that order (seeing as I could bum crampons and axes from my friends).

I've decided to buy some boots second hand as my first pair, but don't even know where to start. There are no stores near by that I can try a bunch on at and get an idea of what I like (the closest is MEC in Toronto...1.5 to 2 hours away). How easy is it to get a bad fit on boots? If I just buy a pair of boots in my size off someone on the internet is it likely I'll be cursing them within the first few times I go out?
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Re: Ice climbing gear

Postby Mountain_Marc » Fri Oct 14, 2005 8:51 am

granite_grrl wrote:How easy is it to get a bad fit on boots? If I just buy a pair of boots in my size off someone on the internet is it likely I'll be cursing them within the first few times I go out?


In my experience, very easy! It's definitely worthwhile to try them on first, because a lot of manufacturers have different sizing. A La Sportiva 8 could be a Scarpa 8.5. I went through alot of trial and error of ordering boots from the US and then having a boot that didn't fit to perfection. Hiking wise the was good but not for ice climbing. Too much heel lift, etc.

Living in Ottawa, I have the same problem. No available boots to try on, so I often drove down to the Dacks or MTL to get boots.

Although you may get lucky and have a perfect without trying them on. I know my roommate did.

Welcome to the fabulous world of ice climbing!
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Postby martha » Fri Oct 14, 2005 11:05 am

I will really reccommend getting a boot specifically designed for women. my first boots were mens boots in a small size and they were just too wide, especially in the heel and didn't have the best general shape for my foot, or the best height for the much lower female calf muscle.

I am now in the La sportiva 'L'hotse' and they are awesome. If you can swing the cash, I reccomend the Nepal Extremes in the womens version.

A bad fit in boots means a bunch of stuff... sore cold feet, too much movement when front pointing, and just general discomfort. don't get them too big thinking you will wear more socks. find a thin pair of smart wool or cotten underlayer socks (moisture absorbtion) and put on a pair of wigwam thick hikers, or wool socks and leave it at that.

If the boots are a smidge big, you are better off putting an extra insole in them to fill up space. It will take up width, and reduce heel lift but not affect your length. Another option, if the boot fits really well everywhere, but you are getting lift in the heel only (common for ice climbing) then you can put a 'half insole' in under the regular insole on the back half of the foot (from the arch back)only. this lifts the heel enough that it puts it in a smaller part of the boot, and more near the tendon pads common in leather boots.

I prefer a nice leather boot over a double boot that is a liner plus a plastic shell. this is for a number of reasons. one is that they make shells in only every other size or so and then fit the liners to the foot, so if you don't fit it exactly, the shell could be a little too big thus being sloppy over your liner. Plus, the liners don't have the support of a regular boot with proper arch placement, achilles tendon support and padding. I have owned and climbed in both and prefer the leather. I have no problems with cold feet at all and have climbed in weather of -20 or more and belayed for hours on end in one position. (you'll get really good at the ice climbing belay dance/stomp) hehehe.

Hope this helps!!!

Cara
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Postby Fred » Fri Oct 14, 2005 12:30 pm

if you've never ice climbed before I'd recommend just getting a cheap pair of downhill ski boots at your local Salvation Army. You may find out that ice climbing is not your cup of tea.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby granite_grrl » Fri Oct 14, 2005 1:36 pm

Fred wrote:if you've never ice climbed before I'd recommend just getting a cheap pair of downhill ski boots at your local Salvation Army. You may find out that ice climbing is not your cup of tea.


I did get to try it last year a couple of times at the end of the season. I enjoyed it enough that I have no problem justifying the minimum gear required.

I just didn't get to do it enough to figure out if it was something that I'd just do on occasion or be fanatical about...that's why I'd rather buy a pair of second hand boots rather than a nice expensive new pair.

I think the weather might hold out enough for me to get to the Gunks this weekend....has anyone been in the EMS there? Would they have boots I could try on? I'd assume Rock and Snow does but I'm not sure if we'll get into New Paltz.
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Postby Fred » Fri Oct 14, 2005 1:59 pm

we were at EMS and Rock and Snow on our trip to the Gunks and I didn't see any ice boots

The place to get the best deals on used ice boots is Conway apparently.

The LaSportivas fit/size funny. Beware.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby Michelle » Fri Oct 14, 2005 3:09 pm

I got a brand new pair of Salomon's Super Monutain 8 on e-bay for about $140 CND. They are great the only thing is to make sure the seller has a good rep (ie good comments) and to email them about sizing and returning if the size doesn't fit right.

Mine fit great though because I talked to the seller about fit before I bought them. There was a little lift in the heel but I put in the blister prevetor pads on the back and it stops the lift.
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Postby martha » Fri Oct 14, 2005 3:58 pm

Rock and Snow carries ice climbing and mountaineering boots. They would likely just be putting them on the shelves now. EMS didn't have any in that store. It is so small! EMS and IME in North Conway have tons of stuff, and the IME in North Conway has a second hand place downstairs where you can put your gear on consignment. There are always killer deals there.
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Postby Brent » Tue Oct 18, 2005 9:47 pm

I am selling a pair of Super Mountain 9's a few years old but like new size 9. I would not buy a pair of boots until you have tried them on and climb in them if possible.
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Postby jeremy » Tue Oct 18, 2005 10:08 pm

brent how much $$

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Postby Brent » Fri Oct 21, 2005 7:47 am

250 neg
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